The concept of nanotechnology was introduced in 1959 by Richard Feynman, a Nobel Prize-winning American physicist. In the past 46 years, nanotechnology has made a lot of progress, and this column will briefly review recent developments in this field.
The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) defines nano particles as under 100 nanometers, which are one-billionth of a meter. A human hair, by contrast is approximately 80,000 nanometers. Literature suggests that a consumer can expect far more positive benefits from engineered nano-particles contained in cosmetics than potential toxicity from its use. This is reflected in the accelerated patent activity in the skin area exploiting nanotechnology. The market for nanotechnology is growing 14% annually and is expected to top $100 billion by 2017, according to The Freedonia Group. Within this market, the medical devices and supplies segment incorporating nano materials and technology was predicted to grow from $400 million in 2006 to $5.2 billion in 2011, reaching $16.2 billion by 2016.

What’s all this got to do with cosmetics? Nanotechnology is used to encapsulate actives that are water-soluble and hard to penetrate in skin such as vitamin C, peptides and retinol and drive them deeper into skin where they could deliver their benefits of rejuvenating skin. Some formulators alter the shape of these molecules so they anchor onto specific targets such as melanin, wrinkled skin. By nano-scaling salicylic acid, formulators have created products that attack acne without drying the entire skin’s surface. Many of the latest cosmetic and sunscreen products contain nano-sized materials such as titanium, iron and zinc.
There are two major techniques used in the creation of nano particles: build these materials up from the atomic scale or make smaller particles from larger particles.

Nanoscale materials exhibit different properties and advantages compared to the larger-scale original material. Nano ingredients make products more efficient while enhancing consumer acceptance. Nano emulsions are transparent and have unique skin feel. They stabilize the actives and improve efficacy. Liposomes and niosomes are globular vesicles with diameters between 25 and 5000nm. They consist of phospholipids, sphingolipids or ceramides. They are produced by coacervation or phase separation techniques. Vesicles primarily improve the stability and tolerance of actives that are encapsulated within the vesicles.

No wonder why Nutricare Co. adds “nano-liposomes” to its Organic Baby Cream, while P&G, J&J and GlaxoSmithKline have used nano materials for decades to provide for more effective products. Nanomaterials help to repair the skin barrier while preventing water loss at the skin’s surface because of occlusive properties of the small particles, thus enhancing skin moisturization.

Are They Safe?
Ever-shrinking particle size evokes concern for safety and effectiveness. However, modifying the surface of nano materials with bio-compatible polymers reduces their toxicity in-vitro and alters tissue deposition.1 Particle reactivity and toxicity were magnified as particle size decreased. There is no regulation requiring labeling of nano materials. The FDA can, only minimally, regulate certain anti-aging products containing nano particles because they are termed “cosmetics” rather than “drugs.” There are both in-vitro and in-vivo methods available that measure the rate of skin absorption and penetration of cosmetic ingredients. We all know that all new formulations and sunscreens are tested on human subjects for their skin tolerance. Europe has passed new laws that will require most nano ingredients in sunscreen cosmetics to face new safety testing and mandatory labeling.

Conclusion
A large number of cosmetic companies sell anti-aging products containing nano particles. Despite safety concerns, this technology has an appreciable impact on skin care product efficacy. The long-term health risks of nano particles however, remain poorly understood.

To learn more, be sure to attend Happi’s Anti-Aging Conference & Tabletop Exhibition, Sept. 10 & 11 at the Hyatt Regency, New Brunswick, NJ. The Day 1 Keynote Speaker is Dr. Adnan Nasir MD, PhD, who is president of the Nanodermatology Society and a clinical professor of dermatology at the University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill. Dr. Nasir’s topic is “Challenges and Opportunities for Nanotechnology in Anti-Aging Skin Care.” 

More info: conference.happi.com 

References

1. B. Ballou et al. Non-invasive imaging of quantum dots in mice, Bioconjugate Chem 15, 79-86 (2004).

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Navin M. Geria
Senior Technical Advisor and Principal Doctors Skin Prescription
[email protected] 

Navin Geria, ex-Pfizer Research Fellow, is senior technical advisor and principal of the dermatological research company, Doctors Skin Prescription (DSP), Boston, founded by dermatologist David J. Goldberg, MD JD and plastic surgeons William P. Adams, MD FACS and Jason Pozner, MD. Geria has more than 30 years of experience in the personal care industry and was previously with Clairol, Warner-Lambert, Schick, Bristol-Myers and most recently, Spa Dermaceuticals. He has earned nearly 20 US patents, has been published extensively and has been both a speaker and a moderator at cosmetic industry events. www.dspskincare.com